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Las verdades del pan

Las verdades del pan

Autor
26 marzo, 2014
Actualidad, Productos
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Denostado y, en ocasiones, relegado por las dietas hipocalóricas, el pan debe seguir siendo la base de la alimentación más saludable. Ésa es la premisa sobre la que giró la última tertulia de La Carta Malacitana en El Pimpi, que tuvo como protagonista a Antonio García, panadero y empresario de El Colmenero de Alhaurín, uno de los pocos establecimientos que sigue luchando por dignificar uno de los alimentos más antiguos del mundo.

Bodegón de pan en la tertulia celebrada en El Pimpi.

Bodegón de pan en la tertulia celebrada en El Pimpi.

Decía García que el pan comenzó a existir en la alimentación humana el mismo día que a alguien se le ocurrió «mezclar cereales machacados con agua para quitarse el hambre». Sería, nunca mejor dicho, la Prehistoria del Pan. Durante milenios ha sido el eje sobre el que ha girado la nutrición. Sus aportes calóricos -fundamentales en el desayuno-, el aporte de los cereales usados y su carácter artesanal -el del auténtico pan- deberían ser motivos suficientes para que este producto fuera puesto en un verdadero pedestal entre nuestras ingestas.

Sin embargo, corren, hoy día, muy malos tiempos para este alimento milenario. La inclusión de aditivos, mejorantes, conservantes y otros elementos ajenos a la tradición panadera han ‘intoxicado’ notablemente la naturaleza del pan en beneficio de intereses comerciales hasta convertirlo en una amalgama artificiosa de dudosa salubridad. Se pervierte así la sencilla fórmula que, según contaba Antonio García, lleva el pan: harina, sal, agua y levadura. Todo lo que se le añada a partir de ahí tiene el fin perverso de alargar excesivamente la vida del producto o simplemente aparentar lo que no es. A modo de anécdota, el moderador de esta tertulia, el periodista Marcos Chacón, relató los numerosos elementos añadidos que llevaba un pan adquirido en una gran superficie. Ante el asombro del público asitente, parecía más una compleja fórmula química que un simple pan.

Antonio García (derecha), junto a Jesús Moreno, de La Carta malacitana.

Antonio García (derecha), junto a Jesús Moreno, de La Carta malacitana.

Afortunadamente, existen casos como el del Colmenero de Alhaurín, una empresa familiar que, en su tercera generación, sigue apostando con empeño y maestría en concienciar sobre la importancia de consumir un pan de calidad. Y todo ello a pesar de que la legislación actual no hace más que poner zancadillas a quienes apuestan por la excelencia de un producto. Basta un ejemplo que relataba García en El Pimpi: Cualquiera puede decir que hace un pan artesano, sin que éste lo sea. En Francia, la normativa que rige lo artesanal exige contundentemente que eso sea algo certificado.

En su afán de potenciar esa cultura del pan, en El Colmenero inauguraron en 2007  en Alhaurín El Grande (en las instalaciones de la pandería) el primer museo temático de Andalucía que gira en torno a ese producto. Allí, cientos de escolares conocen de primera mano la historia de este producto y hacen su propio pan en las visitas organizadas por centros educativos. Es uno de los compromisos que tiene su actual gerente, Antonio García, quien ha heredado de su padre, promotor del Museo del Pan, el entusiasmo por este producto.

Tras la tertulia, se dio a degustar pan artesano con aceite de oliva virgen extra y naranja.

Tras la tertulia, se dio a degustar pan artesano con aceite de oliva virgen extra y naranja.

A pesar del pesimismo de muchos contertulios, García se mostraba esperanzado en que muchos consumidores fueran distinguiendo la paja del trigo en lo que se refiere al pan de calidad. Animaba incluso a que se experimentara en los hogares a realizar panes caseros. Sin lugar a dudas, es la mejor forma de comprobar que, cuando se quiere calidad, ésta tiene que estar respaldado por unas mínimas dotes artesanales y una buena porción de experiencia y conocimiento.

En Málaga, desafortunadamente, más allá del famoso mollete, por cuyo origen compiten archidoneses y antequeranos, no existe un pan autóctono ni de la provincia ni de ninguna comarca, salvo el ya casi desaparecido pan de maíz de Istán. Sólo el llamado ‘pan cateto’ sigue siendo un referente para aquellos que buscan productos como los de antes, pero que tendrían que ser como los de siempre. Atrás quedan los llamados ‘panes de leña’, de los que pueden presumir muy pocos establecimientos en todo el país.

Eso sí, en Málaga sí se sabe combinar perfectamente un pan de calidad con la gran variedad de productos que otorga el campo: Desde los distintos aceites de oliva virgen extra a quesos de cabra malagueña, mermeladas caseras, embutidos ibéricos o incluso miel.



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n.initCustomEvent(e,t.bubbles,t.cancelable,t.detail),n}e.prototype=window.Event.prototype,window.CustomEvent=e}}(),function(e){e[e.Pending=0]="Pending",e[e.Loaded=1]="Loaded",e[e.Failed=2]="Failed"}(State$1||(State$1={}));class Provider{constructor(e){this.timeoutSeconds=5,this.handlePixelEvent=e=>{switch(this.state){case State$1.Failed:break;case State$1.Pending:setTimeout((()=>this.handlePixelEvent(e)),100);break;case State$1.Loaded:this.onPixelEvent(e)}},this.watch=()=>{switch(this.state){case State$1.Loaded:case State$1.Failed:break;case State$1.Pending:this.isLoaded()?this.state=State$1.Loaded:this.isTimedOut()?this.state=State$1.Failed:setTimeout(this.watch,50)}},this.config=e,this.identifier&&this.identifier.length>0?(this.state=State$1.Pending,this.timeoutAt=new Date,this.timeoutAt.setSeconds(this.timeoutAt.getSeconds()+this.timeoutAfter()),this.injectPixel()):this.state=State$1.Failed}get identifier(){var e;return null===(e=this.config)||void 0===e?void 0:e.key}get pixelEvents(){var e;return null===(e=this.config)||void 0===e?void 0:e.pixel_events}injectPixel(){this.injectedAt||(this.injectedAt=new Date,this.inject(),this.watch())}inject(){const e=document.createElement("script");e.text=this.script,document.head.appendChild(e)}isTimedOut(){return+new Date>=+this.timeoutAt}timeoutAfter(){return this.timeoutSeconds}selectPixelEvent(e){if(Array.isArray(this.pixelEvents))return this.pixelEvents.find((t=>"term-view"===t.trigger&&"visit"===e||(!(!["term-click","ad-view"].includes(t.trigger)||"ctr"!==e)||"ad-click"===t.trigger&&"click"===e)))}}class Facebook extends Provider{get script(){return`!function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s){if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function(){n.callMethod?n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments)};if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0';n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0;t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0];s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)}(window, document,'script','https://connect.facebook.net/en_US/fbevents.js');fbq('init', '${this.identifier}');`}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&(t.custom?window.fbq("trackCustom",t.event):window.fbq("track",t.event))}isLoaded(){return!!window.fbq}}class Outbrain extends Provider{get script(){return`!function(_window, _document) {var OB_ADV_ID = '${this.identifier}';if (_window.obApi) {var toArray = function(object) {return Object.prototype.toString.call(object) === '[object Array]' ? object : [object];};_window.obApi.marketerId = toArray(_window.obApi.marketerId).concat(toArray(OB_ADV_ID));return;}var api = _window.obApi = function() {api.dispatch ? api.dispatch.apply(api, arguments) : api.queue.push(arguments);};api.version = '1.1';api.loaded = true;api.marketerId = OB_ADV_ID;api.queue = [];var tag = _document.createElement('script');tag.async = true;tag.src = '//amplify.outbrain.com/cp/obtp.js';tag.type = 'text/javascript';var script = _document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0];script.parentNode.insertBefore(tag, script);}(window, document);`}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&window.obApi("track",t.event)}isLoaded(){return!!window.obApi}}class Revcontent extends Provider{get script(){return""}inject(){const e=document.createElement("script");e.src="https://assets.revcontent.com/master/rev.js",document.head.appendChild(e)}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&window.rev("event",t.event)}isLoaded(){return!!window.rev}}class Taboola extends Provider{get script(){return"window._tfa = window._tfa || [];!function (t, f, a, x) {if (!document.getElementById(x)) {t.async = 1;t.src = a;t.id=x;f.parentNode.insertBefore(t, f);}}(document.createElement('script'),document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0],'//cdn.taboola.com/libtrc/unip/1451879/tfa.js','tb_tfa_script');"}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&window._tfa.push({notify:"event",name:t.event,id:t.pixel_id})}isLoaded(){return Array.isArray(window._tfa)}}class Tiktok extends Provider{constructor(e,t){super(e),this.useAltTikTokEventsForAdsPlatformUser=t}get script(){return`!function (w, d, t) {w.TiktokAnalyticsObject=t;var ttq=w[t]=w[t]||[];ttq.methods=["page","track","identify","instances","debug","on","off","once","ready","alias","group","enableCookie","disableCookie"],ttq.setAndDefer=function(t,e){t[e]=function(){t.push([e].concat(Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0)))}};for(var i=0;i{const{detail:{type:t}}=e;switch(t){case"visit":case"ctr":case"click":this.providers.forEach((e=>e.handlePixelEvent(t)))}},this.providers=[new Facebook(e.facebook),new Tiktok(e.tiktok,e.useAltTikTokEventsForAdsPlatformUser),new Taboola(e.taboola),new Revcontent(e.revcontent),new Outbrain(e.outbrain)]}listenForEvents(){document.addEventListener("pixel",(e=>{this.onPixelEvent(e)}));window.onmessage=e=>{const{origin:t,data:n}=e;ALLOWED_ORIGINS.includes(t)&&(null==n?void 0:n.startsWith(MESSAGE_PREFIX))&&window.location.search.startsWith(ADS_PARAM$1)&&document.dispatchEvent(new CustomEvent("pixel",{detail:{type:"click"}}))}}dispatchEvent(e){document.dispatchEvent(new CustomEvent("pixel",{detail:e}))}}class URLSearchParamsPolyfill{constructor(e){this.params={},e&&e.slice(1).split("&").forEach((e=>{const[t,n]=e.split("=").map(decodeURIComponent);this.params[t]=n}))}has(e){return Object.keys(this.params).includes(e)}append(e,t){this.params[e]=t}toString(){return Object.keys(this.params).map((e=>`${encodeURIComponent(e)}=${encodeURIComponent(this.params[e])}`)).join("&")}}const parse=()=>"function"==typeof window.URLSearchParams?new URLSearchParams(window.location.search):new URLSearchParamsPolyfill(window.location.search);var State;!function(e){e[e.Pending=0]="Pending",e[e.Loaded=1]="Loaded",e[e.Failure=2]="Failure",e[e.TimedOut=3]="TimedOut",e[e.Errored=4]="Errored"}(State||(State={}));const CAF_SCRIPT_SRC="https://www.google.com/adsense/domains/caf.js",TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS=Number(GOOGLE_CAF_TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS),TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS=Number(GOOGLE_CAF_TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS);class StateMachine{constructor(){this.state=State.Pending}transitionTo(e){this.state=e}transitionFromPendingTo(e){this.done||(this.state=e)}get loaded(){return this.state===State.Loaded}get timedOut(){return this.state===State.TimedOut}get done(){return this.state!==State.Pending}}class Ads{constructor(e,t){this.state={script:new StateMachine,blocks:new StateMachine},this.blocksLoaded=[],this.injectScriptTags=()=>__awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return new Promise((e=>{const t=document.createElement("script");t.type="text/javascript",t.src=CAF_SCRIPT_SRC,t.addEventListener("load",(()=>e(!0))),t.addEventListener("error",(()=>e(!1))),document.body.appendChild(t),TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS>0&&setTimeout((()=>e(!1)),TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS)}))})),this.onPageLoaded=(e,t)=>{if(this.pageLoaded={requestAccepted:e,status:t},this.state.script.done)return;const n=null==t?void 0:t.error_code;n?(this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.failureReason=`caf_pageloaderror_${n}`):this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Loaded)},this.onBlockLoaded=(e,t,n,i)=>{this.blocksLoaded.push({containerName:e,adsLoaded:t,isExperimentVariant:n,callbackOptions:i}),this.state.blocks.done||(t?this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Loaded):this.blocksLoaded.length>=this.blocks.length&&(this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.failureReason=`caf_adloadfail_${e}`))},this.onTimeout=()=>{this.state.script.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut),this.state.blocks.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut)},this.blocks=e,this.options=t}get loaded(){return this.state.script.loaded&&!this.blocksLoaded.map((e=>e.adsLoaded)).includes(!1)}waitForBlocks(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return new Promise((e=>{const t=()=>{const n=performance.now();if(this.state.blocks.done)return this.cafLoadTime=Math.round(n-this.cafStartTime),void e();const i=this.blocksLoaded.map((e=>e.adsLoaded));i.includes(!1)||i.length>=this.blocks.length?e():setTimeout(t,50)};t()}))}))}inject(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){try{const e=yield this.injectScriptTags();return this.cafStartTime=performance.now(),e&&void 0!==window.google?(new window.google.ads.domains.Caf(Object.assign(Object.assign({},this.options),{pageLoadedCallback:this.onPageLoaded,adLoadedCallback:this.onBlockLoaded}),...this.blocks),TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS>0&&setTimeout(this.onTimeout,TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS),yield new Promise((e=>{const t=()=>{this.state.script.done?e():setTimeout(t,10)};t()}))):void this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure)}catch(e){return void(this.error=e.toString())}}))}toCallbacks(){return{adLoadedCallback:this.blocksLoaded.slice(-1)[0],pageLoadedCallback:this.pageLoaded,cafTimedOut:this.state.script.timedOut||this.state.blocks.timedOut,cafLoadedMs:this.cafLoadTime,googleAdsFailure:!!this.failureReason}}toContext(){const e={cafScriptWasLoaded:this.state.script.loaded,cafScriptLoadTime:this.cafLoadTime,callbacks:this.toCallbacks};return this.error&&(e.js_error={message:this.error}),this.state.script.loaded||(e.zeroclick={reason:"googleAdsFailure"}),e}mockFailedState(){this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure)}}class TagManager{constructor(e){this.injected=!1,this.identifier=e}inject(){if(this.injected)return;if(!this.identifier)return;if("TEST"===this.identifier)return;const e=document.createElement("script");e.setAttribute("src",`https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtag/js?id=${this.identifier}`),document.head.appendChild(e),this.track(),this.injected=!0}track(){this.push("js",new Date),this.push("config",this.identifier)}push(e,t){window.dataLayer||(window.dataLayer=[]),window.dataLayer.push(arguments)}}const ADS_PARAM="?caf",ADS_TRACKING_URL="_tr",BLOCKS_TYPE="ads",BLOCKS_CONTAINER="rs",KNOWN_CAF_PARAMS=["caf","query","afdToken","pcsa","nb","nm","nx","ny","is","clkt"];class Google{static build({pageOptions:e,preferredLanguage:t,blocks:n,googleAnalytics:i,reportableChannel:s},a,o){let r={};e&&(r=Object.assign({},e),r.hl||(r.hl=t),s&&(r.channel=r.channel.concat(`,pid-bodis-gcontrol${s}`)));let d=null==e?void 0:e.resultsPageBaseUrl;return new Google(a.uuid,n,r,i,d)}constructor(e,t,n,i,s){this._blocks=t,this._pageOptions=n,this.uuid=e,this.baseURL=s,this.ads=new Ads(this.blocks,this.pageOptions),this.tagManager=new TagManager(i)}injectTagManager(){this.tagManager.inject()}injectAds(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){yield this.ads.inject()}))}waitForBlocks(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return this.ads.waitForBlocks()}))}get blocks(){return(this._blocks||[]).filter((e=>this.wantsToServeAds?e.type===BLOCKS_TYPE:e.container===BLOCKS_CONTAINER)).map((e=>{const t=parse(),n=Object.assign({},e);return n.resultsPageBaseUrl=`${this.baseURL}${ADS_PARAM}&${t.toString()}`,this.wantsToServeAds&&(t.append("click","true"),t.append("session",this.uuid),n.clicktrackUrl=`${TRACKING_DOMAIN}${ADS_TRACKING_URL}/?${t.toString()}`),n}))}get pageOptions(){const e=Object.assign({},this._pageOptions);return Object.keys(this._pageOptions).forEach((t=>{t.startsWith("bodis")&&delete e[t]})),e}get cannotLoadAds(){return!this.ads.loaded}get wantsToServeAds(){return window.location.search.startsWith(ADS_PARAM)}get adsMode(){return this.ads.loaded&&this.wantsToServeAds}get adsReady(){return this.wantsToServeAds&&!this.cannotLoadAds}get noAdsRedirectUrl(){const e=new URLSearchParams(window.location.search);return KNOWN_CAF_PARAMS.forEach((t=>e.delete(t))),`${window.location.origin}?${e.toString()}`}get callbacks(){return this.ads.toCallbacks()}toContext(){return Object.assign({blocks:this.blocks,pageOptions:this.pageOptions},this.ads.toContext())}}class CookieConsentManager{constructor(){this.injectScriptTag=()=>__awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return new Promise((e=>{const t=document.createElement("script");t.setAttribute("src",COOKIE_CONSENT_JS_URL),t.addEventListener("load",(()=>this.awaitConsent(e))),t.addEventListener("error",(()=>e(!1))),document.head.appendChild(t)}))}))}inject(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.injected||!COOKIE_CONSENT_JS_URL||isLocal()||(this.injected=yield this.injectScriptTag())}))}awaitConsent(e){let t=0;const n=setInterval((()=>{t+=1,20===t&&(clearInterval(n),e(!0)),void 0!==window.__tcfapi&&(window.addEventListener("ConsentActivity",(t=>{const{detail:{status:n}}=t;n&&e(!0)})),clearInterval(n))}),50)}}class App{main(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){if(this.parkResponse=decode(),this.findDomainResponse=yield getFindDomain(),!this.findDomainResponse)throw new Error("Domain failed to load.");this.pixels=Pixels.build(this.findDomainResponse),null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.listenForEvents(),this.adblock=new Adblock,yield this.adblock.inject(),this.google=Google.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.parkResponse,this.adblock),this.google.injectTagManager();const t=Parking.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.google);Render.prerender(t),this.cookieConsentManager=new CookieConsentManager,yield this.cookieConsentManager.inject();let n=Failed.cannotPark(this.findDomainResponse);if(n)return void(yield this.transitionToFailed(n));yield this.google.injectAds();const i=Disabled.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.adblock.state);if(i)return void(yield this.transitionToDisabled(i));const s=Sales.build(this.findDomainResponse);if(s)return void(yield this.transitionToSales(s));this.eligibleForZeroClick&&(this.zeroClickResponse=yield getZeroClick(this.context));const a=Redirect.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.zeroClickResponse,this.google);a?yield this.transitionToRedirect(a):(n=Failed.noSponsors(this.google),n?yield this.transitionToFailed(n):yield this.transitionToParking(t))}))}transitionToParking(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,Render.template(e),Render.revealPage(),yield this.google.waitForBlocks(),yield this.track()}))}transitionToRedirect(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e;const t=this.track();Render.revealPage(),yield waiter(e.delay,(e=>Render.loading(e))),yield t,window.location.href=e.url,log(`➡ Redirecting [${e.url}]`)}))}transitionToFailed(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),yield this.track()}))}transitionToSales(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,e.init(this.context),yield this.track()}))}transitionToDisabled(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),yield this.track()}))}track(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){if(!this.state.track)return Promise.resolve();try{const t=this.state.trackingType;return null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.dispatchEvent({type:t}),trackVisit({context:this.context,callbacks:this.google.callbacks},t)}catch(e){return}}))}get eligibleForZeroClick(){const{cannotPark:e,canZeroClick:t,zeroClick:n}=this.findDomainResponse,{cannotLoadAds:i,wantsToServeAds:s}=this.google;return!!t&&(!!e||(!(!i||s)||!!(null==n?void 0:n.reason)))}get context(){var e,t,n,i;const s=this.findDomainResponse,a=this.parkResponse,o=null===(e=this.state)||void 0===e?void 0:e.toContext(),r=null===(t=this.adblock)||void 0===t?void 0:t.toContext(),d=null===(n=this.google)||void 0===n?void 0:n.toContext(),c=browserState(),l=Object.assign(Object.assign({},null===(i=this.findDomainResponse)||void 0===i?void 0:i.zeroClick),this.zeroClickResponse);return Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign({app_version:APP_VERSION,zeroClick:l},s),a),r),d),o),c)}init(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){try{window.__parkour=this,yield this.main()}catch(e){console.error("app",e);const t=Failed.fromError(e);this.state=t,Render.message(t.message),Render.revealPage()}}))}}(new App).init(),exports.App=App}));