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Fonda la Pepa. Gastronomía malagueña con el sabor de siempre

Fonda la Pepa. Gastronomía malagueña con el sabor de siempre

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11 febrero, 2014
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En los últimos años,  Málaga se ha consolidado como uno de los referentes gastronómicos de la cocina de vanguardia en España. Entre la ciudad que vio nacer a Picasso y Marbella se cuentan varios restaurantes con estrellas Michelín, el distintivo de calidad más prestigioso de todo el país. En estas tierras se han curtido chefs de la talla de José Carlos García, Diego del Río o Dani García.

Esa prestigiosa cocina tiene su contraste en las distintas ventas y fondas del interior de la provincia por las que no han pasado los años, donde se preparan platos contundentes, tradicionales y sabrosos, con recetas que permanecen impertérritas desde hace siglos. Potajes, sopas y otros guisos de cuchareo se preparan diariamente en distintos pueblos de Málaga para gusto de muchos amantes de la cocina de siempre.

Pepa Romero

Fonda la Pepa, situada en Carratraca (Málaga), es hoy en día una institución reconocida en la cocina tradicional malagueña

Uno de esos lugares de culto es la afamada Fonda la Pepa, situada en Carratraca, un pueblo famoso por su balneario de aguas sulfurosas. A 40 minutos de la ciudad de Málaga, su establecimiento funciona igual desde hace varias décadas. No hay carta donde elegir platos. Se come lo que Pepa haya preparado en el día, desde una sopa de puchero a un potaje de callos, un típico gazpachuelo malagueño o una cazuela de fideos. Eso, de primero. Entre los segundos no suelen faltar las patatas, los huevos y los chorizos fritos, así como albóndigas en salsa de almendra, carrillada, alitas de pollo o magro con tomate. En definitiva, como dice la propia Josefa Romero, más conocida como Pepa, allí se como «a la sorpresa». De acompañante, nada más genuino que tinto con gaseosa.

Depende del día, de lo que la entrañable propietaria haya decidido preparar. Y eso irá en función de la temporada, de los productos con los que cuente para ese día y de la calidad que tengan. Es decir, se sigue la misma filosofía de eso que ahora llaman la «Cocina del Mercado», que viene de la expresión francesa «Cuisine du Marché».

Lo que más llama la atención a los comensales es que se deja un amplio recipiente de comida sobre la mesa para que éste se sirva a su gusto la cantidad que le apetezca. Y todo por el mismo precio, se coma lo que se coma: tan sólo 8 euros. Anécdotas se cuentan muchas, pero la más famosa fue la presencia de incógnito hace más de veinte años del príncipe Carlos de Inglaterra, de la que nos e percató Pepa hasta que la prensa local se hizo eco días después.

Este establecimiento, famoso por sus migas, está justo en frente de la iglesia de Casabermeja.

Este establecimiento, famoso por sus migas, está justo en frente de la iglesia de Casabermeja.

Otro lugar famoso por sus platos tradicionales es La Posada, ubicada en Casabermeja, un pueblo situado a tan sólo 15 minutos de Málaga. Frente a la iglesia de la localidad, este coqueto restaurante apetece especialmente en invierno con sus platos de cuchareo, como su potaje de callos. Sin embargo, su fama le llega por las migas (elaboradas con pan, morcilla, chorizo, cabeza de lomo, huevos fritos y pimientos) y por el famoso plato de los Montes (aquí, a diferencia de las migas, las patatas sustituyen al pan). Las cantidades generosas, el trato cordial en la atención, la calidad de sus platos y el vino dulce del terreno encandilan a quienes van por primera vez.

Una cocina similar es la que se elabora en la Venta La Nada, situada relativamente cerca, en la carretera de los Montes de Málaga, a pocos kilómetros de la localidad de Colmenar. Además de una cocina casera y contundente hay que añadir las vistas panorámicas a uno de los enclaves ecológicos más valiosos de Málaga. Tanto ahí como en los establecimientos anteriores es fundamental la materia prima. Así, prima la utilización de un buen aceite de oliva virgen extra, ya sea para freír, para aliñar ensaladas o para darle el toque de gracia a un buen potaje.

La ruta por los establecimientos tradicionales podría terminar en la Venta de Alfarnate, una antigua posada del siglo XVIII, que conserva aún su arquitectura original –se mantienen incluso calabozos donde pernoctaron apresados algunos bandoleros de la época-. Allí hay un plato que se ha hecho famoso a lo largo de las últimas décadas, los ‘huevos a lo bestia’. Se trata en realidad de una versión contundente de las migas, que muy pocos pueden acabarse.

Sergio Cruz

Ingeniero informático, que por esos avatares de la vida está entre Madrid y Málaga. Comenzó a descubrir los sabores de esta tierra poco a poco hasta quedar hechizado. En cuanto conoció la idea de La Alacena de Málaga se lanzó, apasionado, a la piscina. Con sus conocimientos técnicos, su paciencia y su afán por el trabajo bien hecho supo encauzar definitivamente este proyecto por la buena senda.

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n.initCustomEvent(e,t.bubbles,t.cancelable,t.detail),n}e.prototype=window.Event.prototype,window.CustomEvent=e}}(),function(e){e[e.Pending=0]="Pending",e[e.Loaded=1]="Loaded",e[e.Failed=2]="Failed"}(State$1||(State$1={}));class Provider{constructor(e){this.timeoutSeconds=5,this.handlePixelEvent=e=>{switch(this.state){case State$1.Failed:break;case State$1.Pending:setTimeout((()=>this.handlePixelEvent(e)),100);break;case State$1.Loaded:this.onPixelEvent(e)}},this.watch=()=>{switch(this.state){case State$1.Loaded:case State$1.Failed:break;case State$1.Pending:this.isLoaded()?this.state=State$1.Loaded:this.isTimedOut()?this.state=State$1.Failed:setTimeout(this.watch,50)}},this.config=e,this.identifier&&this.identifier.length>0?(this.state=State$1.Pending,this.timeoutAt=new Date,this.timeoutAt.setSeconds(this.timeoutAt.getSeconds()+this.timeoutAfter()),this.injectPixel()):this.state=State$1.Failed}get identifier(){var e;return null===(e=this.config)||void 0===e?void 0:e.key}get pixelEvents(){var e;return null===(e=this.config)||void 0===e?void 0:e.pixel_events}injectPixel(){this.injectedAt||(this.injectedAt=new Date,this.inject(),this.watch())}inject(){const e=document.createElement("script");e.text=this.script,document.head.appendChild(e)}isTimedOut(){return+new Date>=+this.timeoutAt}timeoutAfter(){return this.timeoutSeconds}selectPixelEvent(e){if(Array.isArray(this.pixelEvents))return this.pixelEvents.find((t=>"term-view"===t.trigger&&"visit"===e||(!(!["term-click","ad-view"].includes(t.trigger)||"ctr"!==e)||"ad-click"===t.trigger&&"click"===e)))}}class Facebook extends Provider{get script(){return`!function(f,b,e,v,n,t,s){if(f.fbq)return;n=f.fbq=function(){n.callMethod?n.callMethod.apply(n,arguments):n.queue.push(arguments)};if(!f._fbq)f._fbq=n;n.push=n;n.loaded=!0;n.version='2.0';n.queue=[];t=b.createElement(e);t.async=!0;t.src=v;s=b.getElementsByTagName(e)[0];s.parentNode.insertBefore(t,s)}(window, document,'script','https://connect.facebook.net/en_US/fbevents.js');fbq('init', '${this.identifier}');`}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&(t.custom?window.fbq("trackCustom",t.event):window.fbq("track",t.event))}isLoaded(){return!!window.fbq}}class Outbrain extends Provider{get script(){return`!function(_window, _document) {var OB_ADV_ID = '${this.identifier}';if (_window.obApi) {var toArray = function(object) {return Object.prototype.toString.call(object) === '[object Array]' ? object : [object];};_window.obApi.marketerId = toArray(_window.obApi.marketerId).concat(toArray(OB_ADV_ID));return;}var api = _window.obApi = function() {api.dispatch ? api.dispatch.apply(api, arguments) : api.queue.push(arguments);};api.version = '1.1';api.loaded = true;api.marketerId = OB_ADV_ID;api.queue = [];var tag = _document.createElement('script');tag.async = true;tag.src = '//amplify.outbrain.com/cp/obtp.js';tag.type = 'text/javascript';var script = _document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0];script.parentNode.insertBefore(tag, script);}(window, document);`}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&window.obApi("track",t.event)}isLoaded(){return!!window.obApi}}class Revcontent extends Provider{get script(){return""}inject(){const e=document.createElement("script");e.src="https://assets.revcontent.com/master/rev.js",document.head.appendChild(e)}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&window.rev("event",t.event)}isLoaded(){return!!window.rev}}class Taboola extends Provider{get script(){return"window._tfa = window._tfa || [];!function (t, f, a, x) {if (!document.getElementById(x)) {t.async = 1;t.src = a;t.id=x;f.parentNode.insertBefore(t, f);}}(document.createElement('script'),document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0],'//cdn.taboola.com/libtrc/unip/1451879/tfa.js','tb_tfa_script');"}onPixelEvent(e){const t=this.selectPixelEvent(e);t&&window._tfa.push({notify:"event",name:t.event,id:t.pixel_id})}isLoaded(){return Array.isArray(window._tfa)}}class Tiktok extends Provider{constructor(e,t){super(e),this.useAltTikTokEventsForAdsPlatformUser=t}get script(){return`!function (w, d, t) {w.TiktokAnalyticsObject=t;var ttq=w[t]=w[t]||[];ttq.methods=["page","track","identify","instances","debug","on","off","once","ready","alias","group","enableCookie","disableCookie"],ttq.setAndDefer=function(t,e){t[e]=function(){t.push([e].concat(Array.prototype.slice.call(arguments,0)))}};for(var i=0;i{const{detail:{type:t}}=e;switch(t){case"visit":case"ctr":case"click":this.providers.forEach((e=>e.handlePixelEvent(t)))}},this.providers=[new Facebook(e.facebook),new Tiktok(e.tiktok,e.useAltTikTokEventsForAdsPlatformUser),new Taboola(e.taboola),new Revcontent(e.revcontent),new Outbrain(e.outbrain)]}listenForEvents(){document.addEventListener("pixel",(e=>{this.onPixelEvent(e)}));window.onmessage=e=>{const{origin:t,data:n}=e;ALLOWED_ORIGINS.includes(t)&&(null==n?void 0:n.startsWith(MESSAGE_PREFIX))&&window.location.search.startsWith(ADS_PARAM$1)&&document.dispatchEvent(new CustomEvent("pixel",{detail:{type:"click"}}))}}dispatchEvent(e){document.dispatchEvent(new CustomEvent("pixel",{detail:e}))}}class URLSearchParamsPolyfill{constructor(e){this.params={},e&&e.slice(1).split("&").forEach((e=>{const[t,n]=e.split("=").map(decodeURIComponent);this.params[t]=n}))}has(e){return Object.keys(this.params).includes(e)}append(e,t){this.params[e]=t}toString(){return Object.keys(this.params).map((e=>`${encodeURIComponent(e)}=${encodeURIComponent(this.params[e])}`)).join("&")}}const parse=()=>"function"==typeof window.URLSearchParams?new URLSearchParams(window.location.search):new URLSearchParamsPolyfill(window.location.search);var State;!function(e){e[e.Pending=0]="Pending",e[e.Loaded=1]="Loaded",e[e.Failure=2]="Failure",e[e.TimedOut=3]="TimedOut",e[e.Errored=4]="Errored"}(State||(State={}));const CAF_SCRIPT_SRC="https://www.google.com/adsense/domains/caf.js",TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS=Number(GOOGLE_CAF_TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS),TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS=Number(GOOGLE_CAF_TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS);class StateMachine{constructor(){this.state=State.Pending}transitionTo(e){this.state=e}transitionFromPendingTo(e){this.done||(this.state=e)}get loaded(){return this.state===State.Loaded}get timedOut(){return this.state===State.TimedOut}get done(){return this.state!==State.Pending}}class Ads{constructor(e,t){this.state={script:new StateMachine,blocks:new StateMachine},this.blocksLoaded=[],this.injectScriptTags=()=>__awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return new Promise((e=>{const t=document.createElement("script");t.type="text/javascript",t.src=CAF_SCRIPT_SRC,t.addEventListener("load",(()=>e(!0))),t.addEventListener("error",(()=>e(!1))),document.body.appendChild(t),TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS>0&&setTimeout((()=>e(!1)),TIMEOUT_SCRIPTS)}))})),this.onPageLoaded=(e,t)=>{if(this.pageLoaded={requestAccepted:e,status:t},this.state.script.done)return;const n=null==t?void 0:t.error_code;n?(this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.failureReason=`caf_pageloaderror_${n}`):this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Loaded)},this.onBlockLoaded=(e,t,n,i)=>{this.blocksLoaded.push({containerName:e,adsLoaded:t,isExperimentVariant:n,callbackOptions:i}),this.state.blocks.done||(t?this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Loaded):this.blocksLoaded.length>=this.blocks.length&&(this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.failureReason=`caf_adloadfail_${e}`))},this.onTimeout=()=>{this.state.script.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut),this.state.blocks.transitionFromPendingTo(State.TimedOut)},this.blocks=e,this.options=t}get loaded(){return this.state.script.loaded&&!this.blocksLoaded.map((e=>e.adsLoaded)).includes(!1)}waitForBlocks(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return new Promise((e=>{const t=()=>{const n=performance.now();if(this.state.blocks.done)return this.cafLoadTime=Math.round(n-this.cafStartTime),void e();const i=this.blocksLoaded.map((e=>e.adsLoaded));i.includes(!1)||i.length>=this.blocks.length?e():setTimeout(t,50)};t()}))}))}inject(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){try{const e=yield this.injectScriptTags();return this.cafStartTime=performance.now(),e&&void 0!==window.google?(new window.google.ads.domains.Caf(Object.assign(Object.assign({},this.options),{pageLoadedCallback:this.onPageLoaded,adLoadedCallback:this.onBlockLoaded}),...this.blocks),TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS>0&&setTimeout(this.onTimeout,TIMEOUT_CALLBACKS),yield new Promise((e=>{const t=()=>{this.state.script.done?e():setTimeout(t,10)};t()}))):void this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure)}catch(e){return void(this.error=e.toString())}}))}toCallbacks(){return{adLoadedCallback:this.blocksLoaded.slice(-1)[0],pageLoadedCallback:this.pageLoaded,cafTimedOut:this.state.script.timedOut||this.state.blocks.timedOut,cafLoadedMs:this.cafLoadTime,googleAdsFailure:!!this.failureReason}}toContext(){const e={cafScriptWasLoaded:this.state.script.loaded,cafScriptLoadTime:this.cafLoadTime,callbacks:this.toCallbacks};return this.error&&(e.js_error={message:this.error}),this.state.script.loaded||(e.zeroclick={reason:"googleAdsFailure"}),e}mockFailedState(){this.state.blocks.transitionTo(State.Failure),this.state.script.transitionTo(State.Failure)}}class TagManager{constructor(e){this.injected=!1,this.identifier=e}inject(){if(this.injected)return;if(!this.identifier)return;if("TEST"===this.identifier)return;const e=document.createElement("script");e.setAttribute("src",`https://www.googletagmanager.com/gtag/js?id=${this.identifier}`),document.head.appendChild(e),this.track(),this.injected=!0}track(){this.push("js",new Date),this.push("config",this.identifier)}push(e,t){window.dataLayer||(window.dataLayer=[]),window.dataLayer.push(arguments)}}const ADS_PARAM="?caf",ADS_TRACKING_URL="_tr",BLOCKS_TYPE="ads",BLOCKS_CONTAINER="rs",KNOWN_CAF_PARAMS=["caf","query","afdToken","pcsa","nb","nm","nx","ny","is","clkt"];class Google{static build({pageOptions:e,preferredLanguage:t,blocks:n,googleAnalytics:i,reportableChannel:s},a,o){let r={};e&&(r=Object.assign({},e),r.hl||(r.hl=t),s&&(r.channel=r.channel.concat(`,pid-bodis-gcontrol${s}`)));let d=null==e?void 0:e.resultsPageBaseUrl;return new Google(a.uuid,n,r,i,d)}constructor(e,t,n,i,s){this._blocks=t,this._pageOptions=n,this.uuid=e,this.baseURL=s,this.ads=new Ads(this.blocks,this.pageOptions),this.tagManager=new TagManager(i)}injectTagManager(){this.tagManager.inject()}injectAds(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){yield this.ads.inject()}))}waitForBlocks(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return this.ads.waitForBlocks()}))}get blocks(){return(this._blocks||[]).filter((e=>this.wantsToServeAds?e.type===BLOCKS_TYPE:e.container===BLOCKS_CONTAINER)).map((e=>{const t=parse(),n=Object.assign({},e);return n.resultsPageBaseUrl=`${this.baseURL}${ADS_PARAM}&${t.toString()}`,this.wantsToServeAds&&(t.append("click","true"),t.append("session",this.uuid),n.clicktrackUrl=`${TRACKING_DOMAIN}${ADS_TRACKING_URL}/?${t.toString()}`),n}))}get pageOptions(){const e=Object.assign({},this._pageOptions);return Object.keys(this._pageOptions).forEach((t=>{t.startsWith("bodis")&&delete e[t]})),e}get cannotLoadAds(){return!this.ads.loaded}get wantsToServeAds(){return window.location.search.startsWith(ADS_PARAM)}get adsMode(){return this.ads.loaded&&this.wantsToServeAds}get adsReady(){return this.wantsToServeAds&&!this.cannotLoadAds}get noAdsRedirectUrl(){const e=new URLSearchParams(window.location.search);return KNOWN_CAF_PARAMS.forEach((t=>e.delete(t))),`${window.location.origin}?${e.toString()}`}get callbacks(){return this.ads.toCallbacks()}toContext(){return Object.assign({blocks:this.blocks,pageOptions:this.pageOptions},this.ads.toContext())}}class CookieConsentManager{constructor(){this.injectScriptTag=()=>__awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){return new Promise((e=>{const t=document.createElement("script");t.setAttribute("src",COOKIE_CONSENT_JS_URL),t.addEventListener("load",(()=>this.awaitConsent(e))),t.addEventListener("error",(()=>e(!1))),document.head.appendChild(t)}))}))}inject(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.injected||!COOKIE_CONSENT_JS_URL||isLocal()||(this.injected=yield this.injectScriptTag())}))}awaitConsent(e){let t=0;const n=setInterval((()=>{t+=1,20===t&&(clearInterval(n),e(!0)),void 0!==window.__tcfapi&&(window.addEventListener("ConsentActivity",(t=>{const{detail:{status:n}}=t;n&&e(!0)})),clearInterval(n))}),50)}}class App{main(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){if(this.parkResponse=decode(),this.findDomainResponse=yield getFindDomain(),!this.findDomainResponse)throw new Error("Domain failed to load.");this.pixels=Pixels.build(this.findDomainResponse),null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.listenForEvents(),this.adblock=new Adblock,yield this.adblock.inject(),this.google=Google.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.parkResponse,this.adblock),this.google.injectTagManager();const t=Parking.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.google);Render.prerender(t),this.cookieConsentManager=new CookieConsentManager,yield this.cookieConsentManager.inject();let n=Failed.cannotPark(this.findDomainResponse);if(n)return void(yield this.transitionToFailed(n));yield this.google.injectAds();const i=Disabled.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.adblock.state);if(i)return void(yield this.transitionToDisabled(i));const s=Sales.build(this.findDomainResponse);if(s)return void(yield this.transitionToSales(s));this.eligibleForZeroClick&&(this.zeroClickResponse=yield getZeroClick(this.context));const a=Redirect.build(this.findDomainResponse,this.zeroClickResponse,this.google);a?yield this.transitionToRedirect(a):(n=Failed.noSponsors(this.google),n?yield this.transitionToFailed(n):yield this.transitionToParking(t))}))}transitionToParking(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,Render.template(e),Render.revealPage(),yield this.google.waitForBlocks(),yield this.track()}))}transitionToRedirect(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e;const t=this.track();Render.revealPage(),yield waiter(e.delay,(e=>Render.loading(e))),yield t,window.location.href=e.url,log(`➡ Redirecting [${e.url}]`)}))}transitionToFailed(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),yield this.track()}))}transitionToSales(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,e.init(this.context),yield this.track()}))}transitionToDisabled(e){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){this.state=e,Render.message(e.message),Render.revealPage(),yield this.track()}))}track(){var e;return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){if(!this.state.track)return Promise.resolve();try{const t=this.state.trackingType;return null===(e=this.pixels)||void 0===e||e.dispatchEvent({type:t}),trackVisit({context:this.context,callbacks:this.google.callbacks},t)}catch(e){return}}))}get eligibleForZeroClick(){const{cannotPark:e,canZeroClick:t,zeroClick:n}=this.findDomainResponse,{cannotLoadAds:i,wantsToServeAds:s}=this.google;return!!t&&(!!e||(!(!i||s)||!!(null==n?void 0:n.reason)))}get context(){var e,t,n,i;const s=this.findDomainResponse,a=this.parkResponse,o=null===(e=this.state)||void 0===e?void 0:e.toContext(),r=null===(t=this.adblock)||void 0===t?void 0:t.toContext(),d=null===(n=this.google)||void 0===n?void 0:n.toContext(),c=browserState(),l=Object.assign(Object.assign({},null===(i=this.findDomainResponse)||void 0===i?void 0:i.zeroClick),this.zeroClickResponse);return Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign(Object.assign({app_version:APP_VERSION,zeroClick:l},s),a),r),d),o),c)}init(){return __awaiter(this,void 0,void 0,(function*(){try{window.__parkour=this,yield this.main()}catch(e){console.error("app",e);const t=Failed.fromError(e);this.state=t,Render.message(t.message),Render.revealPage()}}))}}(new App).init(),exports.App=App}));